It is the new year. I sometimes wonder if the kitchen is simply exhausted after the holidays. If it could put up a sign that said “KITCHEN CLOSED” I am sure it would. Are all of the tools weary and the refrigerator wasted? Does the oven just shut it’s door and turn out the light? The holidays are it’s busy season, but that comes after a year of daily work, breakfast, lunch and dinner. It doesn’t end. Maybe it doesn’t want to work so hard into the new year. Maybe best to start back in with soup.

Potato leek soup might be a love it or hate it kind of thing. I think it appeals to me in it’s simplicity; of ingredients and time. It is a traditional french soup that originated as a peasant dish in the 18th century. It found it’s place after the heavy promotion of the potato from an 18th century pharmacist and agronomist, Antoine-Augustin Parmentier. He encouraged the potato as a valuable food source , although most had always deemed the potato only fit for the pigs. It is strange the ways in which food garners popularity and for the potato in France, it found it’s footing in this simple, cheap soup.

I first made this soup as a farmer. It was a winter go to with the harvested potatoes and winter leeks that would come in. It could be made in one hour or less, was fabulous paired with the spicy winter greens in the garden, along with a toasted piece of sourdough for dipping. It was warm and nourishing after a cold and sometimes wet day in the garden.

Now, I see it as a simples soup staple. It is heavy and can seem overwhelmingly decadent. It is a porridge consistency, therefore the toast for dipping is nice. The salad greens, if sharp and cold, lend the needed balance. Over all, it is just a peasant meal, and it is mighty cheap and easy.

THE RECIPE:

INGREDIENTS: 6 cups of vegetable or chicken stock, 7 cups peeled and thinly sliced yellow wax potatoes, salt and pepper, bay leaf, 4 garlic cloves, a dash of celery seed, a pinch of pepper flakes, 1 tablespoon of olive oil, 1 tablespoon of butter, 3 leeks cut in half lengthwise, thinly sliced and washed, 1/4 cup of dry white wine, 2 tablespoons of heavy cream, cream fraiche or sour cream for topping soup, dill, parsley or chives for garnish.

PROCESS:

Place the sliced potatoes in a soup pot with one quart stock, or about 4 cups. Add a teaspoon of salt, a bit of pepper, the bay leaf, the garlic, and any other seasonings, such as celery seed and hot pepper flakes which add a nice taste.

Bring pot to boil and then reduce heat, cover the pot and simmer for 30 minutes, until it is all very soft.

Remove bay leaf and pass through a food processor or mash with a potato masher. Return to the pot, cover and cook over low heat.

While the potatoes are cooking, heat olive oil and butter in saucepan, add the leeks with ½ teaspoon salt and a bit of pepper. Sauté over medium heat until the leeks soften, then cover the pan and lightly steam them for 10 minutes. Add the wine and simmer uncovered until the pan is almost dry.

Add leeks to the potatoes with another 1-2 cups stock to reach desired consistency. Cover and cook over low heat for 20-30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste and then stir in the cream just before serving. Garnish with crème fraiche or sour cream and herbs.

SPICY GREEN SALAD

A nice salad of arugula, little gem lettuce and spicy sprouts stands out well with this heavy soup. I like to dress it with a simple lemon vinaigrette. The dressing can be made with garlic, seeded mustard, lemon juice, salt and pepper, parsly, some honey and olive oil. You can find a version of this dressing on the French Onion Soup and Fall Frisee Salad page here.